Decorated fabric.



J. A. GROBBLI.

DECOBATBD FABRIC.

APPLICATION nun APR. 2. 1911 Patented Apr. 30, 1912.

wi/twwoco UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JOSEPH A. GROEBLI, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

DECORA'I'ED FABRIC.

To all whom {it may concern:

Be it known that I, JOSEPH A. GROEBLI, a citizen of the United States,and a resident of the city, county, and State of New York, have inventedcertain new and useful Improvements in Decorated Fabric, of which thefollowing is a specification.

My invention relates to improvements in decorated fabric and moreparticularly to the decoration of a fabric by what is gen erally calleda couching stitch. This decoration is formed on various materials as afoundation and is generally used in dresses and wherever a decorativefabric is desirable: and usually the same has consisted when made on asewing machine, not only of the foundation fabric, but of a cord oflongitudinal loose threads forming a kind of rope and of sufficientdiameter to lie in relief on the fabric; of a stitching, usually formedby the ordinary chain stitch or by the lock stitch of the sewingmachine, and a binding or holding thread which was passed under thestitching and then over the decorating cord. and stitching and thenceunder the stitching again and so on. In progressing alongthe fabric, thebinding or holding thread passing around the decorative cord, wouldassume a spiral position and there was a tendency to draw the cord outof a straight line and to make it lie curved. When the couching stitchwas formed by hand work, the decorative cord was placed straight and washeld on the fabric by the holding thread, which latter was formed ofloops passin transversely around the cord and passe through the fabric,thus securing the cord to the fabric in straight formation, rather thanzig-zag and the securing or holding thread appeared on the front of thefabric as transverse loops passing around the cord. There has thusbecome an appearent distinction between hand produced couching stitchand machine made, and the former is probably generally preferred notonly because it is more artistic, but because it is recognized as handwork.

The object of my invention is to produce the couching stitch in such away that the same may be made on a sewing machine and still have theappearance of hand made work, with the holding thread passing over thecord transversely. By making the stitch under my invention the cord maybe kept in a straight line or not, as desired, but in Specification ofLetters Patent.

Application filed April 3, 1911.

Patented Apr. 30, 1912.

Serial No. 618,681.

any case the loop of the holding thread may be formed transversely overthe cord. This will cause the material to resemble hand decorated work.

In the drawings forming a part of this application, Figure 1, is a planview of a couching stitch when produced on a fabric. by machine underthe old construction. Fig. 2, is a similar view of my improved stitch,with the decorative cord omitted. Fig. 3, is an enlarged perspectiveview of the construction shown in Fig. 2, showing the formation of theloop. Fig. 3 is a sectional view taken on the line 3 3 of Fig. 2, Fig.4, is a view similar to Fig. 2, in which the cord is included in theconstruction, Fig. 5, is a plan view of my improved stitch in a modifiedform.

In Fig. 1, I have shown the most common construction produced by machinework under former practice, and this consists of a fabric 1, which formsthe basis of the construction; a stitching 2, produced by the sewingmachine, a holding thread 3, and the decorative cord 4. The holdingthread 3, is passed under the stitching as at 5, usually when the latteris being formed by the sewing machine and. then passes spirally aroundthe cord 4, and again under the stitching and if the thread 3, is drawnvery taut the cord 4, will become curved as is shown in the drawing. Infact it is necessary in this construction, to draw the thread 3, taut inorder to roperly hold the cord upon the fabric. side from the diflerencein appearance between this and the hand produced construction it is muchless stable. It will be noted that in this construction for each timethe holding thread 3, passes under the stitching 2, it passes over thecord and therefore over the stitching.

In Figs. 2 and 3, I have shown one embodiment of my invention. wherein Ihave produced a "cry artistic stitch in which the cord is not used, thethread 6, in this case, forming the decoration on the fabric 1. I desireto protect my invention in this form as well as where the cord is used.

Referring to Figs. 2 and 3 it will be observed that there is a fabric 1,which forms the foundation of the construction, and passing through thisis the stitching 2, which I have shown somewhat exaggerated in size inorder to illustrate the construction; and this stitching is formed bythe sewing machine. The thread 3, which in this form of my inventionforms the principal decoration in the fabric, is disposed different tothat of the old construction and by reason of the present arrangement avery pleasing and novel effect is produced. Starting from the point 6,of Fig. 2, and following the thread 3, downwardly (see Fig. 3 also) itwill be seen that at the point 7, the thread 3, passes under thestitching 2 and therefore between the latter and the fabric 1. It passesto the opposite side of the stitching and then rises over the stitching,forming a loop 9 and passes again under the stitching, from left toright, at the point 8, and again cornes'to the ri ht side of thestitching. By passing the tiread 3, thibtigh at the points 7 and 8,close to each other, the loop 9, is thrown, which will lie generallytransverse of the general disposition of the decoration, producing avery novel and pleasing appearance. The'passage of thread 3, under thestitching 2, at the points 7 and 8', may if desired, bring the threadtwice under the same stitch of the stitching 2, in which event the loopis certain a) la; in a traneveiee' osaian. nr order to produce theeffect desired it is necessary to pass the thread 3, twice under thestitching 2, for each loop 'thatis formedl As a matter of fact, Ihaye'shown the thread in Fig: 2, a

passed under the stitching 2, third time at the intermediate point 10,

which I consider adds to the artistic appear-- time of the decoration.There is no liinit to the particular number of these intermedi ate'passes nnder'stitch 29. However, the additional passage sheer thestitching is net necessary in order to p'rodhce'the loop 9, as Will beapparent froth the modified form which Will he referred to hereinafter.

The dedo'r'ation justt described forms a. novel and pleasing effect,which is made possible in' machine Work by the way in Whieli'the sa'rneis formed, that is, with two or more passes of thread 3,1nider thestitch ing and thence over the same, and I consider this decoration apart of my invention.

In Fig. 4, I have shown my ini ention ea'lried'a step further iii whichcase 1 pro vide a full eonchihg stitch which rese'm bles iii appearancethe hand made. In this structure I have employed the hase fabric 1, thestitching 2, and the holding thread 3,

which as in the preinons instance passes two or moretiines under thestitching and'thenee it passes over the stitching. This forms thetransverse loops 9, as hefore, at regular intervals, and in this casethere is a decorativecord 11, which is held on the fabric liy the loops9, through which the cord passes. By the term cord I do not simply meana filling formed of threads but any filling of longitudinal formationWhether in the nature of a piping or otherwise. This forms the coachingstitch proper, having the ap pearance of hand Work. This may be made onthe sewing machines used to make the former stitch shown in Fig. 1, thecord 11, being fed on as the loops 9, are formed so that the former istaken inby the latter.

In Fig. 5, I hare showna modification of will be apparent my inventionby w'hichit that the thre'ad'3, Iieed not he passedunder the stitching2, thethii'd 'time. l'nthis ease the thread 3, passes under thestitching at the points 7 and 8, as in Figs; 2 and 8, forming the loopsbut instead of passing the thread 3, throtigh at the point' 10' it isbrought down parallel with the stitching2, from the point Whereit comesnnderat S, to the place Where it is tobe passed under at 7, to'form theneict sitecessiveloop. each case, however, it: Will'beapparent that thenoyel effect and the better holdiiigfof the cord is ade ossib'l bythe'passage of the thread'3, at least 'tw'ice'underthe stitching andthereov e'r to fbri ti a loop;

Generally the thread Sand the cord 11, are made in different colors tocreate a conttast, though this is optional,

Chang s mayh'e made in the arrangement and fhrm,witho'itt"departiiig'from the spirit nf my imentidn.

\ Having described my invention what I ,clain'iis:

1 1. A decorated fabric consistitipof afol'in- .datidn aim-5e;stittzhing fo'rmed in thefabric {and a decorative thread; passed underand ever said-stitching, said threadh'eingf p'asse'd awd'or moretitties'nndersaid stitchingand ttienceoverthle same and transverse loopsformed of said threadabo te the fabric. T 2 A decorative" fabric"consisting of a foundation fabric, scathing forlned in the fabric, asuperimposed decorative cord ext'endih in the sainegene'ral direction,as the stitchi and a holding thi'eadpassiiig nn der said stitching andoy'er the said cord and stitching, said holdingthfead, passing two or"more times under said stitching and thence over said co'rd, there'hyforltiingloop's aroiind the" saidcord.

Signed at the city, county and State of New" York, this 30th day ofMarch 1911.

JOSEPH A. ononnm. \Vitnesses CHAS. D. VILLIAMS, WM. G. MILLER.

Copie s of this patent may be obtaiiied for live cents each, byaddressing the (io'm'misiener of Peteirts, Washington, D. e."

